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Should this go back in with the new starter? It doesn't seem to have a sealing function and I'm not sure whether it's an Lucas-starter-specific thing or not.įirst, a note to rollmech: I was able to easily take the 90-degree bend out of the battery cable connection with two sturdy sets of pliers. If anyone's made one and has recommendations, please post them.Īlso, you can see the original spacer that was in place between the starter and the housing. An adapter of some sort will certainly be necessary given at the battery cable isn't particularly flexible and the connection location is quite different than it is on the Lucas starter. REPLACE M45G LUCAS INSTALLI'll install the new starter tomorrow and then figure out how I'm going to get the battery cable connected. Here's a shot of the Lucas starter and its drive gear after it was dropped out:Īnd, finally, a view of the ring gear (or the visible part of it) that can only be seen this way because I could fit my camera into the space available: I needed a deep 9/16" socket to get the thing off. The bolt-stud is at the 9 o'clock position. It should come off last which allows you to gracefully catch the starter with your other hand. It is the one that has its head facing the rear of the car and you need extensions and a universal joint to get to the thing. If you were able to look in at the starter directly from the front of the car, the longest bolt (which stays in the car) is at the 12 o-clock position. The starter is held in place by three bolts, the middle one of which is a unique bolt-stud combo. REPLACE M45G LUCAS WINDOWSWell, after a long break in work to get replacement windows painted and ready for installation before the snow flies, I got back to removing the Lucas starter today. If anyone has done this replacement in the past and sees any errors in my intended course of action, please chime in here. The gear reduction starter and its terminal layout, with my notes about what I think will go where on it, is here: I have to believe this is the "signal" feed from the key when it's turned to the start position. Ĭ) A thin, single wire that goes on its own small screw connection on the solenoid cap. REPLACE M45G LUCAS PLUSī) The small, thick wire between what I think is the starter solenoid and the body of the starter motor plus another wire on this terminal. There are a total of five connections in two groups of two and one single:Ī) The +12V cable from the battery and a fat wire with brown insulation (which I have to imagine is the +12V feed to the rest of the car). The original connections on my Lucas starter are shown here: I definitely don't want there to be any risk of an "uncontrolled descent" of the starter motor once the last bolt comes out since I have to be pretty much directly below it while working. I plan to either run two rope loops or maybe use two ratchet ties down the right side of the engine bay and around the starter motor using the bench as the support system. Someone else had much earlier posted a suggestion for an "across the engine bay" workbench for when you need to get at stuff at the center that's very hard to reach from the edge. I got the recommendation from the RROC-Australia forums to create a sling system for the starter motor. REPLACE M45G LUCAS HOW TOIf anyone had tips about how to separate the pipe from the muffler without destroying either (or both) please offer those. I've managed to get the manifold clamp off and the U-clamp at the first muffler, but the pipe has a "death grip" on the muffler from years of having been together and the resulting corrosion. The biggest challenge so far is getting the exhaust system apart so that I can drop the down pipe between the manifold and first muffler so that I can get the starter out. I started yesterday and continued for as long as I could today. ![]()
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